A paved surface is only as good as the crew that builds it. Two bids can look alike on paper and give you very different results, because most of what decides how long pavement lasts happens underground or before the trucks show up. This guide covers what a good contractor does, the warning signs to watch for, the questions to ask before you sign, and what a solid written estimate should include. It applies whether you’re paving a home driveway, sealcoating a parking lot or resurfacing the yard at an industrial site.
Start by knowing what you need
You’ll get better bids, and spot weak ones faster, if you have a rough idea of the work before you call anyone. Most jobs fall into one of these groups:
- New paving: a new driveway, lot or road built from the ground up, including the base. See asphalt paving.
- Resurfacing: a new layer over pavement that is worn but still sound underneath.
- Repairs: potholes, failed patches and broken edges.
- Preventive maintenance: crack sealing and sealcoating that slow down wear on pavement that’s in decent shape.
You don’t need to diagnose it yourself. A good contractor will tell you which of these your surface needs and why. But if one company says you need a full tear-out and another says a crack seal and sealcoat will do, ask each one to explain what they saw. The answers will tell you a lot.
What a good contractor does before paving
Most pavement failures start below the surface. Cracking, sinking and potholes usually trace back to a weak base, poor compaction or water with nowhere to go. A contractor who takes the job seriously will spend time on these steps, and will explain them to you.
Look at the site in person
A reliable bid comes from a site visit, not a phone call or a satellite photo. Expect the estimator to measure the area, look at the existing surface, check how water drains and ask how the surface will be used. A driveway that sees two cars is a different job from a yard that sees loaded trucks every day.
Check the soil and the base
Soil matters a lot in Texas. Around Waco, Temple and the DFW area, the Blackland Prairie clay swells when wet and shrinks when dry, which can crack pavement that sits on a thin or poorly built base. Farther west you’ll find limestone and caliche, which behave differently. A good contractor will dig out soft or organic material, add and compact a crushed stone base, and adjust the base depth to the soil and the loads it needs to carry.
Plan for drainage
Water is the biggest enemy of any paved surface. The finished surface should be sloped so water runs off it and away from buildings, not into low spots where it sits. On larger sites that may mean grading, curbs, swales or culverts. If an estimator never mentions drainage, ask.
Locate utilities and handle permits
Before any digging, utility lines should be marked through 811. For driveway approaches that tie into a public road, and for culverts, check with your city or county; many require a permit. Ask who is responsible for pulling it.
Compact every layer
The subgrade, the base and the asphalt itself all need to be compacted with the right equipment. Poor compaction is one of the most common reasons new pavement ruts or sinks within a few years. It’s also one of the easiest corners to cut, because you can’t see it once the job is done.
Red flags to watch for
Most paving companies are honest. A few are not, and the warning signs tend to be the same everywhere.
- Door-to-door offers with “leftover asphalt” from a nearby job. Real contractors order material for each job. This is a classic opener for low-quality work.
- Pressure to decide today. A fair price will still be fair next week. “This price is only good if you sign now” is a sales tactic.
- Cash only, or a large payment up front. A reasonable deposit for materials can be normal on bigger jobs. Paying most of the cost before work starts is risky.
- No written estimate or contract. If it’s not in writing, you have nothing to hold them to.
- No proof of insurance. If a worker is hurt or your property is damaged, an uninsured crew can leave you exposed.
- No local address, reviews or references. You want a company you can find and call after the job is finished.
- Vague answers about thickness, base or materials. A contractor should be able to tell you how thick the asphalt will be after compaction and what goes underneath it.
- A price far below everyone else’s. Low bids often come from thinner asphalt, little or no base work, or watered-down sealer.
- Unmarked trucks and no company name on paperwork. Not proof of a problem by itself, but worth a second look combined with any of the above.
Sealcoating: how to tell if the contractor knows the job
Sealcoating is one of the easiest services to do badly, because poor work looks fine for a few weeks. Here’s what proper sealcoating includes:
- Thorough cleaning first. Dirt, debris, oil and loose material must come off, or the sealer won’t bond.
- Crack filling before sealing. Sealer is not a crack repair. Cracks should be cleaned and filled first.
- Oil spots treated. Oil stains need to be cleaned or primed so the sealer sticks.
- The right weather. Sealer needs dry pavement, mild-to-warm temperatures and a dry forecast while it cures. Applying it right before a storm wastes your money.
- Proper coverage. Commercial lots often get two coats, especially in drive lanes. Ask how many coats and how the sealer is mixed.
- Sensible timing. New asphalt should cure for about six months before its first sealcoat. After that, every two to three years is typical. Sealing every year usually just builds up layers that can crack and peel.
Be wary of anyone who offers to seal pavement that is badly broken. Sealer protects good pavement; it can’t hold failed pavement together.
Extra considerations for commercial and industrial property
A business lot or industrial yard raises the stakes. The surface carries heavier loads, more traffic and more liability, and the work has to fit around your operations.
- Design for the real loads. Tractor-trailers, forklifts and dumpster trucks need a thicker base and pavement than passenger cars. Tell the contractor what really drives on the surface.
- Ask about phasing. Can the work be done in sections, at night or on weekends so you can stay open and keep deliveries moving?
- Plan striping and accessibility. New or resurfaced lots need striping, including accessible parking. See parking lot striping.
- Look at experience with similar sites. Ask for examples of comparable commercial paving work and references you can call.
- Get a maintenance plan. A good contractor will suggest a schedule for crack sealing, sealcoating and restriping, which helps you budget.
Questions to ask before you sign
Use this as a checklist when you meet with each contractor. Good contractors answer these easily.
- How long has your company been in business, and where are you based?
- Can you show me proof of liability insurance and workers’ compensation coverage?
- Can I see photos of similar jobs, or call a few recent customers?
- What’s wrong with my current surface, and what are my options?
- Will you remove the old surface, overlay it, or repair it? Why?
- How deep will the base be, and what material will you use?
- How thick will the asphalt be after compaction?
- How will you handle drainage and any low spots?
- Who arranges utility locates, and does this job need a permit?
- Will you use your own crew or subcontractors?
- When can you start, how long will it take, and what happens if it rains?
- How soon can we drive on it, and what should we avoid at first?
- What is your payment schedule?
- Do you offer any warranty, and what exactly does it cover? Can I get it in writing?
- How will you protect my lawn, curbs, sprinklers and nearby surfaces?
- Who do I call if I have a question during or after the job?
What a good written estimate should include
A written estimate protects both you and the contractor. If something below is missing, ask for it before you sign.
| Item | What to look for | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Company details | Business name, address, phone and the person responsible for your job | You need to be able to reach them later |
| Scope of work | Area and measurements, plus what is removed, repaired or built | Lets you compare bids on the same job |
| Base and prep | Excavation, grading, base material and depth, compaction | This is where low bids often cut corners |
| Surface | Material type and compacted thickness, or sealer type and number of coats | Thickness and coverage drive how long it lasts |
| Drainage | Slope, culverts, swales or curbs if needed | Standing water shortens pavement life |
| Extras | Striping, edging, cleanup, haul-off of old material | Prevents surprise charges at the end |
| Schedule | Estimated start date, duration and weather plan | Helps you plan access and traffic |
| Payment terms | Deposit, progress payments and final payment on completion | Keeps payment tied to work done |
| Warranty | Any warranty in writing, including what is and isn’t covered | A verbal promise is hard to enforce |
| Change orders | How extra work or unexpected conditions are priced and approved | Avoids disputes mid-job |
How to compare bids fairly
Get at least two or three estimates, then line them up item by item. Cost is driven mostly by the size of the area, how much base work is needed, the thickness of the surface, the material, access to the site and how far crews have to haul material. If one bid is much lower, look for what’s missing: a thinner surface, no base work, no drainage fixes or no cleanup. The cheapest bid often becomes the most expensive one if the surface fails early and has to be redone.
Also weigh the things that don’t show up in the price: how clearly they explained the work, whether they visited the site, how they answered your questions and what past customers say about them.
After the job
Before you make the final payment, walk the site with the contractor. Look for low spots where water sits, rough or uneven edges, and any damage to nearby surfaces. Ask for care instructions in writing. New asphalt is usually drivable after 24 to 72 hours, depending on the weather, and it stays soft for a while in Texas heat, so avoid sharp turns, parked trailers and kickstands at first. New concrete typically needs about seven days before it handles cars. Then plan for crack sealing and sealcoating to keep the surface in shape.
Frequently asked questions
How many estimates should I get?
Two or three is usually enough. More than that tends to add confusion without adding much information. What matters most is that each bid covers the same scope so you can compare them fairly.
Is the lowest bid ever the right choice?
Sometimes, if it covers the same base work, thickness and materials as the others. Often a much lower bid leaves something out. Ask the contractor to walk you through it line by line.
How much should I pay up front?
Avoid paying most of the cost before work begins. A modest deposit can be reasonable on larger jobs, with the balance due as work is completed and after a final walk-through.
What’s the best time of year to pave in Texas?
Asphalt is best placed in warm, dry weather, so spring through fall is the usual season. Crack sealing works best in mild weather. Most of Texas allows a long working season, but wet spells and hard freezes can delay jobs.
How long should a new asphalt driveway last?
With a well-built base, good drainage and regular maintenance, an asphalt driveway commonly lasts 15 to 20 years or more. Skipping crack sealing and sealcoating, or building on a weak base, shortens that a lot.
Should I worry if a contractor uses subcontractors?
Not necessarily, but you should know about it. Ask who will be on site, who supervises the work and whose insurance covers them.
Get a free estimate. If you’d like a straight answer about what your driveway, lot or road needs, contact us and we’ll come take a look.
