Farm & ranch roads that hold up to trucks and weather

How we do it

For long ranch roads, tar and chip is usually the best value: it is tough, drains well and costs far less per mile than asphalt. For steep grades, barn approaches and areas where trucks turn, asphalt often holds better.

We build the base properly, with crown and drainage so rain runs off instead of washing the road out.

Gravel, tar and chip or asphalt?

• Gravel: the lowest upfront cost, but it needs regular regrading and new rock, throws dust and washes out in heavy rain.
• Tar and chip: a sealed, dust-free surface for usually a fraction of the cost of asphalt. Roughly 7 to 10 years before it needs a reseal, depending on traffic and drainage.
• Asphalt: the highest upfront cost and the smoothest ride. Best for barn approaches, steep grades and turnaround pads where trucks pivot.

Drainage makes or breaks a ranch road

Most rural road failures start with water: a flat road that holds puddles, ditches that are filled in, or a low crossing without a culvert. We crown the road so rain runs off both sides, shape ditches and swales, and recommend culverts where water crosses. A tar and chip surface over a well-drained base will outlast a thicker surface over a wet one.

Big properties, long distances

We regularly work on long private drives and roads well outside town, from McLennan, Bell, Coryell, Hill, Bosque, Limestone and Falls Counties to the Permian Basin around Big Spring and Midland. Long roads can be done in phases if the budget calls for it, starting with the sections that wash out or take the most traffic.

Read the ranch and farm road guide and private road maintenance guide.